Authentic Luxury Travel

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Home Away From Home

2010-02-25T12:05:00.000-08:00

What could be more authentic than staying in a real home instead of a hotel on your next vacation? Imagine getting to know the neighbors and feeling like a local without having to sacrifice luxurious surroundings.

Rental homes are also great for families or groups of friends traveling together who pay considerably less than they would for a flock of hotel rooms while enjoying more space, privacy, and conveniences.

While I’ve previously worried about ending up in unacceptable circumstances (think dump), I believe the chances of that happening have been reduced by popular websites that make it easy to “out” the bad guys.

As I write this, a friend is packing for a trip to the Loire Valley, where he’ll be staying in a private home he’s rented for a week. “Anna,” his landlady-to-be, “has been helping make local arrangements” and he’s looking forward to meeting her in person.

Gary found his French digs through http://www.vrbo.com/, the granddaddy of the private residence rental websites. Vacation Rental by Owner offers 130,000 places to stay worldwide, and – as the name states - travelers deal directly with the owners.

A relative newcomer to this business, http://www.airbnb.com/ offers everything from a spare bedroom in someone’s home in New York to a castle in Yorkshire that rents for $2,000 a night. Payment is made via the website, where renters can post their experiences.

Upscale serviced apartments, primarily catering to business travelers, are available though several sites. One of these is the UK-based http://www.frasershospitality.com/, which operates in 13 countries and claims to offer “impeccable service and the caring touch of an indulgent mother.”

Luxury travelers definitely want to avoid CouchSurfing.com (don’t even think about it) and Craigslist, which has a reputation for misleading rental ads and information.

If you’ve used these or other sites to find a home away from home, will you post a comment and share your experiences?

Thanks – and bon voyage.

Best Italian Restaurant in India

2010-02-12T11:58:00.000-08:00

One of the great joys of Authentic Luxury Travel is wandering off the beaten path and discovering hidden gems.

Actually, I have to confess I didn't really discover Diva, the best Italian restaurant in India. A friend in London told me about this jewel in Delhi - but if I hadn't been traveling independently, I wouldn't have had a chance to follow up on her recommendation. http://www.diva-italian.com/

Owner/chef Ritu Dalmia fell in love with Italian cuisine when she went to Carrera on behalf of her family's marble and granite business.

Subsequently, she introduced Italian wine to India and has become a major importer of vino di Italia. And here's the best news: Some wines that cost $350 a bottle a block from the winery in Italy can be enjoyed at Diva for $180 because the mark-up is lower in India than anywhere else in the world.

Diva's 14-page list also includes wines from France, Australia, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, New Zealand, Spain, California and - yes - India. Wine Spectator says Diva "offers one of the best lists in the world."

The tony, minimalist restaurant, which opened in 2000, has also won numerous food awards. Some of the dishes come from the wood-fired brick oven visible at one end of the dining room.

We started with sliced crispy duck with white balsamic glaze, rucola, and pecorino shavings. Our next course - porcini risotto - was made without cream so it avoided that common too-rich downfall. John Dory and giant prawns starred in our main courses - and all of the flavors were exquisite.

In addition to Diva, Ritu owns and operates Le Cafe and caters all the meals at the Italian Cultural Center in Delhi.

However, I think the greatest proof of her success was sitting next to us at dinner: an Indian family with two kids, mom in a sari, thoroughly enjoying their Italian meals.

Qantas International Business Now On Sale

2010-01-31T22:02:00.000-08:00

If you act fast, you can get a great deal on Business Class tickets to Australia.

Qantas has a special offer that you must book by February 23, 2010. For the details, go to http://www.qantas.com.au/travel/airlines/visit-australia-business-class/us/en?gclid=CNi6rNyfnZ8CFQJaagodg0r9Ug

Flights depart from Los Angeles or San Francisco and the sale price is up to 55% off regular Business Class prices. A 50-day advance purchase is required.

If you've been thinking of heading down under - now's the time, mate.

United Airlines' Suite Dreams

2010-01-09T12:05:00.000-08:00

If you screen down to my December 7 post, you'll notice that United Airlines didn't win any of the OAG's Best Airline awards. This fact reflects the opinion of many First- and Business-class travelers who consider this legacy airline more of a work horse than a thoroughbred.

However, UAL appears to be trying to step up to the plate and compete with the airlines that offer serious in-flight luxury. The site http://www.suitedreams.united.com/ is all about how they are installing lie-flat beds and making other upgrades to First and Business-class cabins in an effort to provide an "International Premium Travel Experience."

I also found a YouTube site with a timelapse video of the conversion process on a 747: http://www.youtube.com/uniteditstimetofly . The musical accompaniment adds to the viewing experience.

Last year. United teamed up with Westin Hotels & Resorts to create “Renewal Lounges” in their Red Carpet Clubs at JFK, LAX, and SFO. Here, First and Business Class passengers can experience blue-light phototherapy, relax on plush furniture, stretch out on a daybed, and unwind as LCD televisions play custom videos that feature footage of the natural world.

I say "more power to them." The option of another carrier committed to comfort is good news for Authentic Luxury Travelers.

A "phased roll-out" is in process. If you've experienced United's new upgrades, please share your experience by leaving a comment below.

The Inside Scoop on the Burj Dubai

2010-01-05T16:45:00.000-08:00

The world’s tallest skyscraper opened in Dubai a couple of days ago. Already flocks of tour buses are carrying loads of lookey-loos to the 2,717-foot tall building – renamed Burj Khalifa in honor of the president of neighboring Abu Dhabi.

However, authentic luxury travelers will avoid those crowds and view the remarkable landmark from a much more comfortable vantage point.

At the base of The Burj, Downtown Burj Dubai includes an artificial lake where the world’s tallest fountains dance to recorded music à la Bellagio in Las Vegas. This neighborhood is also home to The Palace and The Address hotels and the Dubai Mall, which includes a skating rink, an Aquarium, and a theme park. http://www.thedubaimall.com/

The Address

The 63-story Address targets business travelers and boasts the world’s highest cocktail lounge. Neos offers a great view of The Burj, as well as The World development (famously stalled) just offshore in the Arabian Sea.

Personally, the design of The Address is way too modern for my taste, but I have to admit that I was blown away by the view of The Burj from the level six pool area. Here, a series of connected pools with lights on the bottom are surrounded by extensive plantings and trees. The Risala coffee shop in this area is a great place for a drink or a light meal in a gorgeous setting. http://www.theaddress.com/

The Palace – The Old Town

In my opinion, the best place to stay in this area is The Palace, a six story Arabesque hotel where poolside cabanas on the edge of the lake look like Bedouin tents complete with Oriental carpets and shisha pipes. The pool area is right under The Burj.

Even if you don’t sleep here, consider having a meal at Asado, an Argentinian restaurant, where 80% of the staff are actually from Argentina. They offer live music nightly and tango parties on Sundays. When we were there, a whole baby goat was turning on a spit and patrons were enjoying the largest collection of Argentinian wine in the Middle East.

The Palace also has a good Thai restaurant and an “Oriental” restaurant that combines Arabic and Mediterranean cuisine. All restaurants offer lake views and some Palace guest rooms overlook the lake and The Burj. http://www.thepalace-dubai.com/

In any case, it beats the pucky out of the view from the tour bus.

One-Day United Airfare Sale

2009-12-17T13:18:00.000-08:00

On December 18 - yes, that's tomorrow - United is having a one-day sale on airfares to some of their popular ski destinations. These include Denver, Jackson Hole, and Steamboat Springs - among others.

While tickets must be purchased on December 18, they are good for travel between January 6, and March 11, 2010.

This website has all the details:

http://www.united.com/page/article/1,,50076,00.html?navSource=FareSalePromo&linkTitle=skicities

Happy shushing...

Real Airfare Deals

2009-12-09T08:28:00.000-08:00

There's a silver lining to the financial cloud hanging over Dubai these days.

Award-winning Emirates airline, based in the UAE, announces a new airfare deal every Tuesday at www.emirates.com/spotlight. They also are offering discounted fares on various destinations within their extensive route network. Some of the promotions include lodging with their partner Starwood Hotels.

Check out this website: http://www.emirates.com/us/english/Email/2009/newsletter/emirates_news_december_2009.html

Act fast. Dubai's bad luck won't last forever.

December 10 - One-Day Luxury Travel Auction

2009-12-07T18:49:00.000-08:00

"ONCE IN A LIFETIME AUCTION" FROM ABERCROMBIE & KENT

As I’ve mentioned before, I’m deluged with press releases on travel bargains, and most of them aren’t all that exciting, but this one-day auction could prove to be quite a good deal. A&K is a luxury tour operator with a great reputation. I included them in a piece I just did for Ranch & Coast (http://www.ranchandcoast.com/DETOUR/27/DESTINATIONS/1236/AUTHENTIC-LUXURY-TRAVEL/)

The A&K sale will take place on Thursday, December 10, 2009 at http://www.abercrombiekent.com/.
The countdown will begin at 9:00 a.m. CST, with savings of 5% on nine different itineraries and the new A&K Once in a Lifetime World Pass.

Every 30 minutes the savings will increase by 5% -- to a maximum of 60% off the retail price when the auction ends at 3:00 p.m. CST -- if the trip is still available. There is a choice of departure dates and clients may book multiple rooms on a first-come, first served basis. Solo trips are available for those giving the gift of travel to themselves.

Here’s a sample: Once in a Lifetime Jordan - Discover fascinating Jordan on this privately-guided adventure. Delve into the culture of Amman and explore the desert landscapes of Wadi Rum and the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Petra. End with a relaxing stay at a Dead Sea resort. January dates. Original price: $3,765. Starting bid $3,577 with maximum reduced price of $1,506 -- for savings up to $2,259.

Of course, you could play Santa and buy a trip as a gift – which would eliminate that whole size/color dilemma.

Photo courtesy Abercrombie & Kent

Best Airlines. Do you agree?

2009-12-07T16:17:00.001-08:00

Known as the "Oscars of the Airline Industry," the OAG (Official Airline Guide) Awards carry a lot of clout. Since you have choices when you fly, I thought you might like to see the just-announced list of best airline winners:

Airline of the Year: Singapore Airlines

Best Transatlantic Airline: Virgin Atlantic

Best Business Class: Continental Airlines

Best Airline based in North America: Continental

Best Airline Based in the Middle East/Indian Sub-Continent: Emirates

Best Low-Cost Airline: Southwest

Best Airline Based in Central South America & Caribbean: LAN

Best Airline based in Africa: South African Airlines

Best Airline Based in Central/Eastern Europe: CSA Czech Airlines

Best Airline Based in Australia/Pacific: Qantas

For further details (such as a list of all the finalists), visit http://www.oagairlineawards.com/Winners

I'd really love to hear what you think of this list. Do you agree? Think it's way off base? Please share your experiences by posting a comment below.

We're listening.

Photo courtesy Virgin America.

Business and First Class Bargains

2009-11-23T12:22:00.000-08:00

Every traveler has their own idea about what constitutes a luxury experience – and yours might be quite different from mine. However, I bet we agree on one thing: traveling in Economy class is not luxurious.

To deal with the high cost of Business and First, I have learned to watch for discounted fares (http://www.johnnyjet.com/ is a good source). In addition, I track the airlines’ special promotions. Top-rated Emirates announces a new deal every Tuesday at www.emirates.com/spotlight. A recent offer was two-for-one First Class tickets to any of their 100 destinations.

Because I am a travel writer, I am deluged with press releases about the latest and greatest hotel and airline "bargains." Most of these I ignore because they really aren't all that exciting, but lately I have been getting news of some amazing airline deals.

Since I want you to know about them ASAP (before everyone else snaps them up), I've decided to post them on this blog as soon as they come in. Unfortunately, I can't predict how often this will be, so I suggest you register for an RSS feed (just click on the "Atom" button on the right). That way, every time I post on this blog, you'll get an email.

Of course, I'll also continue writing about other Authentic Luxury Travel topics.

In the meantime, check out two of my favorite sites: http://www.seatguru.com/ and http://www.bestbeds.com/ and stay tuned for money-saving tips on First Class and Business Class airfares.

Here's to traveling in style!

The Best Airport Hotels

2009-11-20T13:13:00.000-08:00

In addition to spacious quarters, high-thread count linens, and agreeable service, my definition of luxury travel includes the indulgence of not having to start the day at the crack of dawn.

To take the pain out of early-morning departures, I often stay at airport hotels – not the lodgings that advertise themselves as “airport hotels” that are actually a bus ride away, but the honest-to-goodness roll out of bed onto the check-in counter places.

In my experience, The Fairmont Hotel at Vancouver International Airport (www.fairmont.com/vancouverairport) is the best of these. (See photo.) We recently stayed there enroute to King Pacific Lodge (http://www.kingpacificlodge.com/) in northern British Columbia and were really pleased with the rooms and facilities.

For starters, it was just a short walk from baggage claim to the escalator that whisked us up to the attractive lobby and reception area. Our room overlooked the runway, but soundproof windows kept the peace inside.

I didn’t have a chance to enjoy the spa or the fitness center where the indoor pool overlooks the departure level, but our dinner was excellent – especially the mushroom bisque – and the staff were all remarkably pleasant.

Insider tip: be sure to try the bread pudding on the breakfast buffet and the peanut butter cookies with afternoon tea. www.fairmont.com/vancouverairport

A train connects the airport to downtown Vancouver in about 30 minutes (good to know with the Winter Olympics coming up), which reminded me of another save-the-early-wake-up-call lifesaver: The Regal Airport Hotel at Hong Kong International (www.regalhotel.com/Regal-Airport-Hotel/Main/Hotel-Home/Hotel-Home.aspx).

Here, the staff magically greeted us in the beautiful terminal (I hadn’t given them our arrival time) and walked us over the covered airbridge to the hotel. I was surprised to learn that they offer seven dining and drinking venues as well as a health club and indoor and outdoor pools.

It was tempting to avail myself of the spa facilities or take the state-of-the-art train which delivers passengers to Central HK in 23 minutes, but instead we opted to visit nearby Hong Kong Disneyland. Only 10 minutes from the hotel, this turned out to be a “mini-Mickey” with limited shows and rides – but fun just the same.

The Fairmont and The Regal aren’t the only great airport hotels.

Others you may want to consider include:

the Sofitel Hotel at London’s Heathrow Airport (http://www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-6214-sofitel-london-heathrow/index.shtml)

the Kempinski Hotel at Munich Airport
(http://www.kempinski-airport.de/en/home/index.htm)

the Hilton Hotel at Melbourne Airport (http://www.melbourne-airport.hilton.com/)

the Grand Hyatt Hotel at Dallas-Fort Worth (http://www.granddfw.hyatt.com/)

the Crowne Plaza at Changi Airport, Singapore (http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/)

the Pan Pacific Hotel at Kuala Lumpur International in Malaysia (http://www.panpacific.com/KLairport).

These accommodations offer welcome convenience to luxury travelers who choose to enjoy their journeys rather than rush and worry about missing flights.

If you have experienced other airport hotels, I encourage you to post a comment below.

Thank you.

Radda in Chianti

2009-09-19T17:27:00.000-07:00

“A holiday in Tuscany” sounds idyllic, but finding the right place to idyll requires research.

The British have been vacationing in the Chianti region of Tuscany for so long that it is sometimes referred to as “Chiantishire.” Americans have been arriving in droves since they read Frances Mayes' Under the Tuscan Sun.

The sad result is that some towns have become very touristy. San Gimignano, for instance, is frequently clogged with tour buses.

Not Radda in Chianti. This beautiful hill town where we recently rented a villa is still a real town visited by travelers, not tourists.

Here, the old women assemble in late afternoon and park themselves on benches where they watch their grandkids swinging and sliding on play equipment. Visiting children join the fun, but are not in the majority.

When we walked around the side streets admiring geraniums blooming in profusion, locals shared gardening tips and – in some cases - introduced us to their pets. The arches of old stone buildings frame views of the surrounding hillsides covered in a patchwork of vineyards, cypress trees, and lush green forests.

In addition to ambience, Radda (pop. 1,720) also offers convenience: a supermarket, a pharmacy, an internet hotspot, a bank with an ATM, and several gourmet groceries for premium wines, cheeses, olive oil, and more. Everything feels authentic – especially the shops, where I purchased beautiful ceramic dishes hand-painted with traditional motifs.

We rented our villa from Parker Villas (http://www.parkervillas.com/) and were very pleased with the results. The house was just what we needed – three bedrooms, three bathrooms, and a nice pool. Also, we were able to visit Radda’s Colle Bereto Winery, which doesn’t offer public tours, because we were Parker Villas’ guests.

Most afternoons during our stay in Radda, our family stopped at the local gelateria and tried yet another of their wonderful flavors.

Sweets aren’t normally on my menu, but here they just seemed a natural part of la dolce vita.

Victoria, BC – Beyond the Obvious

2009-07-12T00:02:00.000-07:00

Ask the first time visitor to Victoria on Vancouver Island what they are going to do and the answer is nearly always “have tea at The Empress.” The grand old hotel has become a Mecca for the uninitiated, who apparently don’t mind waiting in line and paying dearly for a pretty unimpressive ho-hum experience.

First, I have to confess that I had afternoon tea at The Empress the first time I went to Victoria, but nowadays I waste no time in heading 45 minutes down the road to the little waterfront town of Sooke.

Here, Sooke Harbour House, a white clapboard country inn, awaits with charming quarters. Each offers an ocean view, a balcony or terrace, private bath, wet bar, and comfortable sitting area in front of a wood-burning fireplace. http://www.sookeharbourhouse.com/

As appealing as the rooms are, it’s the food and wine that draw guests from all over the world. Under the watchful eye of Sinclair and Frederique Philip, the menu changes on a daily basis, but always reflects their food philosophy. Much like Alice Waters in California, Sinclair was the first in Canada to focus on fresh local produce.

“About 95 percent of what we serve comes from the immediate vicinity of the inn,” Sinclair explains, “so we know it’s fresh. Fresh food tastes better and has a higher nutrient value.”

The wine cellar, overseen by Sinclair, has been the recipient of the Wine Spectator Grand Award since 2000. In addition, Sooke Harbour House was voted one of the top three hotels in Canada by the readers of Conde Nast Traveler.

In addition to the scenic location, innovative food, and great wine, this country inn has added the Sea-renity Spa, where fresh herbs and natural seaweed are included in the treatments.

From my point of view, Sooke Harbour House is a prime example of authentic luxury travel.

If you go, will you share your experience with other readers by posting a comment?

Staying In an Indian Village – Well, Almost

2009-04-21T18:53:00.000-07:00

India presents a challenge to Authentic Luxury Travelers. The class distinction and financial status of the local population is so disparate that it’s almost impossible to get to know “the man on the street” and have a sense of what it would be like to live in an Indian community.

The closest we came to experiencing an authentic village was in Kerala at Coconut Lagoon (www.cghearth.com/coconut_lagoon/index.htm). Here, heritage bungalows, mansions, and pool villas are sited around quaint canals that crisscross the 17-acre property. The historic buildings, some dating back to the 1700s, were rescued from destruction and brought to this location from various sites in the surrounding countryside.

Coconut Lagoon is accessible only by boat and offers a peaceful retreat from the cacophony of urban India. Guests tour the region by small boats or luxurious houseboats that quietly cross Lake Vembanad and wander in and out of the backwaters where women do laundry along the banks and men propel their heavily laden canoes with punting poles.

The staff are very caring – of the environment and the guests, who are about half Indian and half overseas visitors. Eco-friendly efforts include a CO-2 plant, organically-grown rice, rainwater collection basins, solar panels for heating water, and a bio-gas digester.

Activities include swimming, cooking classes, yoga, meditation, kayaking, bird watching, touring the nature interpretive center and butterfly gardens, indulging in Ayuvedic spa treatments, and relaxing in hammocks hung between palm trees throughout the lush gardens.

I was pleased to learn that Coconut Lagoon does not accept groups, which might disrupt the serene atmosphere, and not surprised to find out that this very special place has hosted many celebrities, including Sir Paul McCartney.

"Glamping" (Glamorous Camping) in Denali National Park

2008-08-04T15:58:00.000-07:00

If you’ve seen photos of Alaska’s Denali National Park, you know how beautiful it is. What isn’t obvious from those pictures, is the fact that access to that gorgeous scenery is very limited.

Private vehicles are only allowed to travel the first 15 miles of the paved road inside the park. After that, visitors have the choice of sightseeing on Park Board buses or taking the bus to one of several drop-off points and then hiking or mountain biking from there.

To complicate matters, Denali does not offer trails or permanent campgrounds. All camping is “wild” - and don’t forget that bears are a huge issue in this area.

After ten minutes of trying to look through the dirty windows of the park’s antiquated “tour” bus, I knew I had to find an authentic way to experience Denali National Park in comfort – and I did.

Camp Denali (http://www.campdenali.com/) is sited on a private in-holding of land 90 miles from the park entrance. Here, 17 cabins and the 15 rooms at adjacent North Face Lodge provide comfortable lodging, great meals, and top-notch naturalists who lead learning adventures into the wilderness.

A picture window in our cabin framed Mt. McKinley so perfectly that it looked like a postcard. During the course of our three-day stay, we saw “The Great One” surrounded by blue sky, clothed in mist, and bathed in alpenglow.

At Camp Denali, each of the immaculate knotty pine cabins comes with a wood-burning stove, propane lights, at least one comfortable bed covered with a handmade quilt, running water, a kettle for heating water, and an outhouse. Cabins and loos are serviced daily. Hot showers and flush toilets are located in a centrally-located modern bathhouse near the dining room - a three- to seven-minute walk away.

By comparison, North Face Lodge feels like a motel (“30 seconds from your pillow to your placemat”), but it’s a good alternative for those who are less able-bodied or cannot do without an en suite bathroom. Normally, I’d be in that “must have en suite” category – but in this case I much preferred the rustic charm and authenticity of our Camp Denali cabin.

Camp Denali is a family-owned and -operated business and great care and attention is expended on guests’ behalf. In addition to hiking, daytime activities include fishing, biking, photography, canoeing, and flightseeing with Kantishna Air Taxi. Staff naturalists and visiting specialists present evening programs focused on Alaska’s natural and cultural heritage.

It was a privilege to stay at Camp Denali and have exclusive access to very special natural wonders. Sometimes – albeit rarely – “luxury” isn’t about glamorous bathrooms and 24-hour room service - and this was definitely one of those times.

The Real Down Under Wonders

2008-06-11T10:31:00.000-07:00

New Zealand's sparkling blue lakes, snow white glaciers, and majestic fiords are justifiably world renowned. Even though I've lived in this country and explored every nook and cranny, I still frequently stop along country roads and lose myself in the glory of the scenic wonders.

However, having said that, I still think New Zealand's greatest wonders are her people.

Kiwis, as they are often called (after their famous flightless bird), are the kindest, most helpful, and friendliest people I have ever met. They have a natural talent for making visitors feel welcome and go out of their way to make sure everyone gets the most from their stay.

Happily, it isn't difficult for overseas travelers to meet local people. A plethora of owner-operated country lodges, boutique hotels, and bed-and-breakfast inns provide easy intros. So why would anyone opt to stay in a highrise hotel or chain motel? In my mind, this would be like deciding to go on a fast while traveling in France - but I never have understood tourists.

Clearly, Authentic Luxury Travelers seize the opportunity to spend time with local hosts and benefit from their knowledge of the area, as well as their charming hospitality

To make it easy for you to find them, many of these properties have formed marketing groups. Heritage Inns of New Zealand (http://www.heritageinns.co.nz/) are historic properties with 4 - and 5-star ratings. Boutique Hotels (http://www.boutiquehotels.co.nz/) are also excellent. I like some of the New Zealand Lodges (http://www.lodgesofnz.co.nz/), but a few - like Huka Lodge - have become status symbols that attract tourists with money, but no sense.

I'll never forget a conversation I had with a man who'd just returned from New Zealand: He was making the most of the bragging rights he'd earned by staying at Huka, when I pointed out that neither the hosts nor the other guests at the lodge were New Zealanders. I said that I thought he'd missed experiencing authentic New Zealand. To which he replied, "well, I guess I really wasn't interested."

Like I said, I never have understood tourists.

By Private Car Through Vietnam

2008-05-27T21:32:00.000-07:00

Moving from one place to another in Vietnam can be a challenge. This is true whether you are trying to cross a traffic-clogged street in Saigon or endeavoring to explore the whole country.

Many overseas visitors join a tour so they won't have to deal with this issue, but authentic travelers eschew rigid itineraries and going places en masse. Other folks fly from place to place, totally missing the scene on the ground. Then there are the hardy souls who opt to use public transport between cities and find themselves packed like sardines into worn out minibuses. "Uncomfortable" wouldn't even begin to describe this ride.

The solution, my husband and I discovered, is to hire a car with driver and guide - preferably through Ann's Tours in Saigon (only government officials call it Ho Chi Minh City). Before we arrived in Vietnam, I talked to and exchanged emails with Managing Director Tony Nong and felt I could trust him to move us about the country safely and comfortably. (www.anntours.com, 84-8-833-4356)

Our experience couldn't have been better. Although smaller than the huge car rental businesses like the one they have in the car hire kerry circuit, what they lacked in size they made up for in the warmth of their service. His guides took us to the Mekong Delta for two days, then back to Saigon, up to Dalat, and over to Nha Trang. In the North, they coordinated our airport transfers and sightseeing in and around Hanoi and saw us safely onto the train to Sapa. Every vehicle was clean, air-conditioned and in good shape - plus, the drivers knew the locations of the best restrooms along each route.

This would have been quite enough, but Tony's guides offered a bonus I hadn't expected. They were all great company and more than happy to share their personal stories as we traveled from place to place.

Quoc was young, hip, knew almost nothing about "the American War," but gave us an insight into what's-happening-now. Thach had been an interpreter for the US Army and his stories made the 7-hour trip to Dalat fly by in a blink. With Thach, we talked about politics, history, the economy, farming, and why I didn't want to go to a dog meat restaurant.

Hein's parents were Viet Cong who helped orchestrate the Tet Offensive - that made for some interesting discussions. In fact, Hein was the inspiration for one of the stories that resulted from our trip. "Finding Peace in Vietnam" ran in Ranch & Coast magazine and is on my website at http://www.elizabethhansen.net/travelWritingClips/vietnam.htm

Authentic Luxury Travel isn't just about traveling independently and sleeping on high-thread-count linens. It's about really delving into a destination and experiencing the culture. The drivers and guides from Ann Tours enabled us to do just that.