Radda in Chianti

“A holiday in Tuscany” sounds idyllic, but finding the right place to idyll requires research.

The British have been vacationing in the Chianti region of Tuscany for so long that it is sometimes referred to as “Chiantishire.” Americans have been arriving in droves since they read Frances Mayes' Under the Tuscan Sun.

The sad result is that some towns have become very touristy. San Gimignano, for instance, is frequently clogged with tour buses.

Not Radda in Chianti. This beautiful hill town where we recently rented a villa is still a real town visited by travelers, not tourists.

Here, the old women assemble in late afternoon and park themselves on benches where they watch their grandkids swinging and sliding on play equipment. Visiting children join the fun, but are not in the majority.

When we walked around the side streets admiring geraniums blooming in profusion, locals shared gardening tips and – in some cases - introduced us to their pets. The arches of old stone buildings frame views of the surrounding hillsides covered in a patchwork of vineyards, cypress trees, and lush green forests.

In addition to ambience, Radda (pop. 1,720) also offers convenience: a supermarket, a pharmacy, an internet hotspot, a bank with an ATM, and several gourmet groceries for premium wines, cheeses, olive oil, and more. Everything feels authentic – especially the shops, where I purchased beautiful ceramic dishes hand-painted with traditional motifs.

We rented our villa from Parker Villas (http://www.parkervillas.com/) and were very pleased with the results. The house was just what we needed – three bedrooms, three bathrooms, and a nice pool. Also, we were able to visit Radda’s Colle Bereto Winery, which doesn’t offer public tours, because we were Parker Villas’ guests.

Most afternoons during our stay in Radda, our family stopped at the local gelateria and tried yet another of their wonderful flavors.

Sweets aren’t normally on my menu, but here they just seemed a natural part of la dolce vita.